This is the land of the mantle topout, on the most frictionless rock.
Few people venture into Dark Castle these days, the lure of pre-cleaned moderates in Quantum & Spittle Hill prevails.
Dry Valley has become the forgotten area in recent years because the access has changed - now climbers must park at Flock Hill gate and walk back to Dry Valley. Pre-2005 it was a quick jaunt from Cave Stream to the boulders and the area was bustling with activity (well, comparatively). Now it is hard to even find boulder problems that don’t require cleaning.
The boulders here have a ‘Quantum Field blankness’ to them which makes the lines that do exist stand out all the more.
Flock Hill is the premier bouldering area in the Basin. With its huge twisted forms and water-worn limestone boulders, Flock Hill offers perfect terrain for proud modern bouldering problems. Although people have been climbing here for over 40 years, Flock Hill is still under-developed.
With a long approach to ward off the masses and lichen covering past climbers’ test pieces, Flock Hill has always been an area for adventure. The names and grades of problems are passed around like Chinese whispers from climber to climber, so only a handful of locals have a grasp of who has climbed what problems and where all the established classics are.
There are a handful of boulders just south of the cave entrance and two nice boulders next to the river by the cave exit.
Prebble Hill (aka “Teapot” - check out the view from CH Village if you don’t get that reference..) has had little exploration to date and is the ‘land of the projects’. Stunning compression problems, awe-inspiring mountain views, and seemingly-infinite lines to clean make Teapot a premier destination (if you were allowed to get there...)