The Next Big Thing?

Updated Aug 2017 with brand new bad ass projects.

Prior to the existence of this website, Tom Hoyle wrote an article on the big four projects up at Flock Hill (Climber 64, Winter 2008). This article spurred furious action/attempts/discussion amongst "The Top Guys", yet two of those projects still remain (the first two on the list below).

Now, finding the raddest project is as simple as visiting the the Projects page and sorting by quality. But this only tells part of the story. If you are a wannabe crusher, which project should you send to have all the sponsors knocking on your door?

Below are my picks. All of these projects are at least 3 star lines that have been attempted by a bunch of folk. I don't think any of them are ridiculously hard, probably all in the V10 - V13 range.

THE SECRET SOCIETY OF VILLAINS

Flock Hill

 

Face with a few micro crimps. Obvious boulder with cool little edges that us kiwis are too weak to hold and people on trips don't want to waste skin on. Wiz, Wiz why have you not done it? Has a great sit start also that adds a V8 ish start to the problem and should probably be the normal start.


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SUICIDE ARETE

Quantum Field

 

Badass spanny compression on small holds up the arete. Long reach to bad edge then jump up and right to a jug. Re-cleaned recently by NZ's strongest finger wrestling duo. Can anybody beat them to it?

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Gisele Bundchen

Flock Hill

 

The only project remaining from Tom's list. It was originally conceived as a huge dyno, but I think it will be done as a span out left to a small slopey hold and heel up, then slap. All day shade means this climb always has good conditions.

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Samson

Teapot

 

Also still on the List! Rad looking compression project. Probably the easiest line on this list, except you have to walk there, wash it and send it in the sun while it is warm. Apart from that it will be a path.

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THE VATICAN

Flock Hill

 

High compression arête that has occupied James and Zac's dreams for many years. Is probably the best hard project in the whole basin, that we know about.

Triple Mantle

Flock Hill

 

Amazing climb up a huge boulder. Has been top roped from the jug on lip to the top (which is where the 3 mantles are).
Has also been climbed up to under the roof into dyno position. Just need to dyno horizontally out the roof and catch the jug.
I am sure you can sort the landing somehow......

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The Rad Dyno Project

Flock Hill

 

The third remaining project from the last list. Dyno's don't come much radder than this. Though I do notice that all these young kids are not very good at dynos - too much time dragging jibs and not going ballistic I guess. Always in the shade, tricky mantle topout. You will need to be 6ft to reach the launch position.

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CAPTAIN MARVEL

Flock Hill

 

Super bold climb up the amazing arête right of Monster Society of Evil. Crimpy boulder problem to slopey jug then V11 compression problem to good jug (in picture) and easy top. Very Highball.

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RIGHT PSYCHOSIS

Flock Hill

 

All moves have been done. Climb crux moves on Psychosis (easy...) then from knee scum on left arête match some holds and make your way rightwards via progressively bigger moves. Has the most glorious jug at the top of any climb ever.

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So who will be the Next Big Thing?

Completed projects from this list: