The Next Big Thing?

Prior to the existence of this website, Tom Hoyle wrote an article on the big four projects up at Flock Hill (Climber 64, Winter 2008). This article spurred furious action/attempts/discussion amongst "The Top Guys", yet two of those projects still remain (the first two on the list below).

Now, finding the raddest project is as simple as visiting the the Projects page and sorting by quality. But this only tells part of the story. If you are a wannabe crusher, which project should you send to have all the sponsors knocking on your door?

Below are my picks. All of these projects are at least 3 star lines that have been attempted by a bunch of folk. I don't think any of them are ridiculously hard, probably all in the V10 - V13 range.

King Line

Flock Hill


Still on the list since 2005 when Chris Sharma tried it. Since then everyone has top-roped it from one move in, but linking has been elusive. A few things make it tricky, mostly the all day sunshine and needing to be tall and strong. Regardless, it is a stunning line that may not end up being a huge number, but perhaps you should give it one anyway?


Gisele Bundchen

Flock Hill


The second project remaining from Tom's list. It was originally conceived as a huge dyno, but I think it will be done as a span out left to a small slopey hold and heel up, then slap. All day shade means this climb always has good conditions.





Rad looking compression project. Probably the easiest line on this list, except you have to walk there, wash it and send it in the sun while it is warm. Apart from that it will be a path.


Fatal Flaw

Flock Hill


Another almost completed project with all the moves done (by different folk). The Beast Kong was all psyched about it until a tiny thumb catch broke off. Has morning shade, slightly awkward falls and a long reach for the crux move.


Flock Hill


Cool face with a very awkward reach off an inverted gaston to a side pull. Then a few jump moves with a high topout. This project stays in the shade all day.


The Rad Dyno Project

Flock Hill


Dyno's don't come much radder than this. Though I do notice that all these young kids are not very good at dynos - too much time dragging jibs and not going ballistic I guess. Always in the shade, tricky mantle topout. You will need to be 6ft to reach the launch position.


The Big Show

Flock Hill


Proud line overlooking the Camp America area. The first moves look sharp and hard, otherwise the rest looks ok but very high.



Quantum Field


A very old project on a very obvious boulder. A huge move off a good side pull to latch tiny holds and a akward jump to finish.



So who will be the Next Big Thing?