The Unrepeated

By Derek

First ascents are often seen as the be-all and end-all in the climbing game, yet for me it has always been really important to also repeat historic problems and routes. Especially prized are the unrepeated climbs of yesteryear. By seeking out to make repeats of other hard climbs, you have to adapt to “fit into someone else’s box” - this is where you can really develop as a climber. Back in the Hey Day of Castle Hill Bouldering, there is no question that by pushing myself to repeat Daniel’s visionary weird problems; Ivan’s brutal sloper problems; and Matt’s technical grooves, I developed an extremely well-rounded climbing repertoire (in fact some of their hardest problems have still only had two ascents).

Below I have listed some hard climbs that, to my knowledge, remain unrepeated (as of 8/2018 half have been repeated - four years after this list was published). All these problems are good lines, not death highballs (Toby did plenty in that category if they are your thing) and have been around for at least a little while. I am sure many of these could be climbed easily by the Bouldering Beasts or Jib Draggers of today. They may require a different skill set than you can gain on the finger board. Or perhaps they are all just terrible problems which is why they are over grown with moss?

Regardless you will get RAD points if you go out and send any of them.

In no particular order:

Legion sit start
Old school hard. A V10 into a V9 with a tricky transition. Requires thin tips and steel fingers.
May have been repeated by Randy Puro, that dude is an enigma.

The ultimate in the Quantum Field Blank Bulge style. There is one hold up there somewhere, I swear.

What I think people may find the hardest of my problems. Strong clamp move at the start to hold a very small edge, crux foot swing, hard match in slopey pocket, then a scary top out over a dangerous looking rock. Sounds great huh?

Bio Hazard sit start
I used to argue that since Bio Hazard is such a classic, and this sit start adds rad compression moves to the start, it must be four stars. I have done this a bunch of times, I guess it must actually be crap.

Annie Oakley sit start
One very hard first move, that has a morpho solution that Sebastian used to get close on. The starting undercling did break a bit but I have done the move since and it is only a tad harder.

Cosmic Energy sit start
I was super chuffed with this one - I did it in a day, and it was a sit start to a problem that the 6'6 Sebastian had to stack rocks to start.

Liquidus Line
Awesome line, big moves bad feet. Definitely highball, you would be crazy not to top rope it first.

One Trick Pony
The newest problem on this list. But I did first brush it 10 years ago. When people complain about there not being any rad dyno problems at the Hill, point them to this.

Pretty hard for a Flock Hill problem. The adjacent wall detracts at first, but then it become very useful for finding the holds and being a spotter.

Ristretto sit start
Ristretto was the first V11 in the Basin, and has been repeated a handful of times (but not by anyone called James). The sit start adds two moves and makes it quite hard to get established.

One move wonder with a high top out you would not want to fall off. A drive-by off bad holds to a looks-like-a-jug-but-is-really-hard-to-catch hold.

Mortality Sequence
This was repeated by Justin Woods just after James Morris demolished it. Since then it has repelled everybody.
Such an amazing line, deserves way more attention. I reckon we should grade it V14 then people might get psyched on it.